This coffee is from the Kiangoi "Factory", a wet mill that receives and processes coffee fruit, in Kenya terminology. It is in the Kirinyaga growing district, a cooperative coffee and one of the processing stations of the Rung'eto Farmers Cooperative Society (FCS). Oftentimes the qualities from cooperatives are superior in Kenya. In a coop, each member is tending to only 200-500 trees on less than a hectare, as opposed to a huge estate that uses agribusiness growing methods. I think it shows in the cup too. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to visit Kiangoi, as it is the third time we have offered this specific coop coffee. I usually head in the direction of Nyeri to visit coops we have worked with more extensively, and Kirinyaga is the opposite way, to the East and away from the Aberdare zone. The pictures with this review are SL-28 cultivar, the predominate type in Kirinyaga, which is a Bourbon hybrid from the 1930s developed by Scot Labs, and absolutely the best Kenya cultivar for cup quality. This is a nicely prepared AA lot.
This lot from Kiangoi is a dynamic cup, with spiced-fruit notes, and floral complexity. The dry fragrance has a smell of malt and honey, with strong clove spice and grape smells, a fruited sweetness. The wet grounds have enormous fruited sweetness, orange honey-drizzle over dark fruit, and a scent of unrefined sugar on the break. The cup is impressive, fruited and full of refined sugar sweetness. Flavors of bright citrus, mulling spice, and fresh mango come out in City roasts. The list grows as the cup cools, and are highlighted by bracing, orange-like acidity. It's a refreshing cup in the City/City+ roast range, and has so much "Kenya" character in its complex nature. It has a nice all-spice hint too, that works well with the splash of tangerine found in the finish. Full City shows fruit of darker colors, a touch of plum and grape juice, along with a fine Dutch cocoa flavor underneath. Kiangoi offers clean expressions of fruit flavors, and retains a refreshing elegance in the way profile notes are highlighted, and easily discernible from one another. A fruit-dominated Kenya, with all the mouth-cleansing acidic snap that is necessary to add structure in the cup.