Fruited top notes like honeydew melon, papaya, cherry, and citrus, adorn this already syrupy AA outturn from Kanji Lalji Estate. A juicy cup, with a lasting impression of sweetness and body. City+ to Full City.
Kanji Lalji is a larger estate farm owned by the family of the same name, located near Vwawa town in the Igamba district. While our other Tanzania coffees come from smallholders that form cooperative groups, Kanji Lalji is in a different position. The farm has an experienced agronomist, Eliot Swila, who oversees their unique grafting method to bind the variety called Nylon locally (N39a, a Bourbon type) to drought-resistant Mbozi Compact roots. It's not high-tech in any way, but its beyond the means of the small-holder farmer. And in fact Kanji Lalji does this in a test plot for the government that will ultimately be shared with all farmers if it proves viable to face the seasonal lack of water in the area. All of that is a bit of a fascinating footnote: the lots we selected from Kanji Lalji are from their oldest trees, which are the original Mbozi Mission Bourbon variety. The farm has been managed for decades by Willy, a real character; a 79 year old Swiss expat, sparing with words but clearly a man with a depth of coffee farming experience that shows in everything he does at Kanji Lalji farm. (Oh, and that's his dog "Kipsy" on our 2015 calendar cover!). This is the Peaberry outturn, a sizable lot that is quite unique in relation to the AA and AB outturns.
Kanji Lalji shows a malt syrup and caramel sugar sweetness in the fragrance, City+ and Full City roasts especially sweet. The latter sees a nudge-up in fruited sweetness. The wet aroma is focused around brown sugar sweetness with hints of baked fleshy fruits (particularly sensed on the break), and reminds me of baked pastry/fruit turnovers. A brown sugar flavor comes through in the brewed coffee too, an up front impression when hot, and lingering in the finish as well. There's a red raisin note that plays well off this sugary-sweet base, and at City+ joins other background hints of ground cinnamon, roasted barley, and Lipton black tea with lemon. Sweetness is most developed from City+ to Full City, at times coming off as burned sugar, and as you work through the cup shows elements of sweet spice cake. There's a dense mouthfeel, like canned-fruit syrup, and the middle roast ranges build juicy body. FC roasts are also very sweet, and with an air of chocolate roast tones make a nice espresso option too: high % cacao bar, tart lemon, caramel sweetness, and spice sachet.