This coffee is distinct from other Indonesias, like a hybrid between a Sumatra and a Central America coffee. Fruited bittersweet balance, chocolate biscuit, plum, less weighty body than a wet-hull Sumatra, but still quite dense. Sweet spices: cinnamon, fresh ginger, clove and coriander. Full City to Vienna.
This coffee represents an intervention in the parchment coffee buying process in Takengon, where wet parchment from the farms is bought by mills, dried to 25% moisture or so, and then "wet-hulled" to create the typical dark green Sumatra coffee. Because wet-hulled (called Giling Basah) coffee is laid out to dry after the parchment layer is peeled off, it is exposed to all kinds of possible taints. Under the best conditions, the green coffee is laid on raised beds or clean concrete patios. But in smaller mills and home-processing, it is laid on driveways, on dirty tarps, or directly on hard dirt plots. Nowhere else in the world is unprotected green coffee dried like this. The Bukit project starts with the same small-holder coffee, purchased selectively from this specific Aceh subdistrict, then dried in parchment all the way to 11% moisture. (Bukit means "hill" in Indonesian). This process is the same way you would dry a coffee in Guatemala, in Colombia, or in Kenya. Then it is hulled at the dry mill as any other coffee would be. We could call this semi-washed perhaps, but we can't be sure if the coffee was fermented by the farmer, or brought with a percentage of fruit still on the parchment, a "honey coffee" as we call it in Brazil or Central America. "Dry-Hulled" really describes the primary difference between this and other Sumatra coffees. And it's a difference you will find right away in the cup.
This coffee is distinct from other Indonesias, like a hybrid between a Sumatra and a Central America coffee. It has the brighter, lively character of other origins, the aromatics, but still retains a degree of its wild Sumatra roots too. Like other Sumatra coffees, it is also best at darker roast levels, Full City and beyond. The dry fragrance at Full City has vivid chocolate biscotti notes, as well as hints of fruit. The slightly winey fruit notes really assert themselves in the wet aroma, melon-like and even a bit of durian. The cup has a fruited bittersweet balance, with chocolate biscuit roast taste, and plum in the finish. The body is less weighty than a wet-hull Sumatra, but still quite dense. Sweet spices come out as the cup cools off a bit, cinnamon, fresh ginger, a bit of clove and coriander. As the cup cools more, has more body, rustic hot chocolate, spices, nut: it reminds me of Mexican hot chocolate. It's not a super sweet coffee, more aggressively bittersweet rather. This coffee works really nice as Single Origin Espresso at a light Vienna roast level, roasted into 2nd crack.