Tumba cups with a candied sweetness, and complex fruit notes flourish in the cooling cup. Pineapple, mango, grape, orange, even a cherry jolly rancher note. Top notes proliferate in the long, sweet finish, a mix of spices and freesia-like floral note. A beautiful Rwanda cup. City to Full City.
Tumba has been a coffee on my radar for years. When I first tasted it, the sweetness and bright acidic snap in the cup made a great impression. But even then I saw how each cup I prepared for testing was different, and a lack of consistency can mean problems in the processing. For a coffee buyer, it signifies that what you taste now might not be what you get upon importation. The backstory at the time was Tumba Station was a private processing wet mill that had 2 owners with very different ideas of quality and how to run a mill. Fast forward 5 years and here we are offering Tumba for the first time under a different light. A local teacher in the Tumba area for which the mill is named, had taken over all aspects, and the coffee was consistent in every cup ... and amazingly good! Venustre Mugraneza, the teacher, is esteemed in the local community and has been systematically improving the mill. The best coffee cherries (those that make up this lot) are dried in a special area of raised beds and receive focused handpicking by the farmers. Tumba is situated at 1825 meters in the Rulindo district, where we also source our excellent Cocatu Cooperative lots.
This lot from Tumba shows candied sweetness in the cup, a beautiful profile of fruit and floral flavors, and malic to tartaric acidity offer amazing structure to the complex cup character. The dry fragrance is loaded with sweet fruit smells, fresh apple and apricot, spiced accents of clove and cardamom. The wet grounds have a smell of maple candy, or icing, spread thick around subtle stone fruit and citrus smells wafting in the steam. The brewed coffee is unbelievably clean and clear, profile flavors crisp and are easily discernible. There is a surprising level of tropical fruit flavors in the cup: pineapple, mango, and a slight papaya note. Not like "fresh" fruit or fruit nectar so much, but more like flavored water or punch. As you move through the cup, a tart citrus note comes into play balancing caramel and bittersweet coffee tones. Fruit candy notes come through too, and our City+ roast showed a flavor very close to cherry jolly rancher as it cooled. Tumba finishes sweet, a mix of chocolate and orange is sensed in the long aftertaste, along with a subtle baking spices, and a freesia-floral hint. A remarkable Rwanda cup, light-to-middle roasts making incredible pour-over brews. The green coffee has a bit of silverskin still intact, somewhat limiting visibility when judging roast color during roasting. Expect more chaff than the "standard" bean, easily winnowed off post-roast.