Kamoini has intense aroma, pineapple and caramelized sugars, flavors of tart nectarine and coconut, ruby red grapefruit, and fresh hops. Big sweetness across the roast spectrum. City to Full City+. Great espresso.
Kamoini is one of several coffees we picked up from Othaya Farmer's Cooperative Society (FCS), an FCS that includes an impressive amount of wet mills, 18 in all, dating back to the late 1950s. Kamoini Factory sits at 1825 meters above sea level, right along the Ichamama River, which is fed from the Karima forest above. "Factories" are essentially small washing stations aligned with a particular "society" in Kenya, what we would call a "cooperative". We return to the societies who seem to regularly produce some of the best Kenya coffees, and each year we come across societies that are new to us as well. Being one of the older Kenya FCS, we are well aware of the quality coming out of Othaya, and have had the good fortune to buy a few stellar lots the past two years. It was purchased direct, not through the Kenya auction system, so we could avoid the risk of losing it. To do this we pay a price that is higher than what the top auction bid might be, but it means we get the exact lot we want.
Kamoini boasts intense aromatics, caramelized sugar and pineapple, cooked fruit, and layers of raw sugars. The wet grounds are so sweet, and a mixture of dried stone fruits (apricot and nectarine) and syrupy sweetness give the impression of pastries with fruit fillings, especially when breaking through the crust where you're greeted with a perfumed sweetness in the steam. City to City+ roasts are juicy when brewed, with an up-front orange flavor followed closely by raw sugar and cinnamon powder. The sweetness builds in the cooling coffee, and layers of raw sugars are revealed as you move through the cup: the cleanliness of simple syrup, aromatic cane juice, and rustic appeal of molasses cookies. Fruits like mango and tart nectarine, coconut copra (the inside "flesh"), and ruby red grapefruit emerge as well. The mouthfeel is juicy, the weight of grape juice, and flavors fade to lemonade with accents of fresh hops and spice that reminds me of Belgian ale. The sweetness holds up to roast too, and at Full City, chocolate roast tones are balanced by saccharine sweetness, and with piquant berry and orange zest notes in the finish. This isn't a particularly 'bright' Kenya cup either (at least not for Kenya), and a great candidate for espresso. I pulled a shot with our Full City roast, and the liquor was exceptionally viscous, literally 'syrupy'. Acidity shows brighter in this application, like an accent of fresh squeezed lemon, but easily balanced by flavors of high % cacao bar. So nice.