This coffee comes to us from the Kiamabara factory, located near the town of Nyeri. This is a cooperative coffee - part of the Mugaga Farmers Cooperative Society - but in Kenya they're called "factories" which is quite fitting really. I think of factories as an assembly line of sorts, where there is absolute consistency to the product output. This rings true for coffees that come from many of the Kenya factories we deal with. Year after year they have an astonishing ability to consistently produce sweet, clean, and complex coffees. Like most of the cooperatives in the area, members tend to much smaller plots of coffee trees than their estate farm competition, thus having more control over the production of ripe cherry. The average altitude is right around 1900 masl and most of the small holder farmers contributing to this washing station grow SL-28, and SL-34 cultivars (Bourbon hybrid from the 1930's developed by Scot Labs). This is the Peaberry outturn, meaning, they've separated out all of the peaberries from a particular day's harvest, which in this case makes up a whopping 14 bags.
This lot from Kiamabara is loaded with citrus notes all throughout the cup experience, as well as across the roast spectrum. City to C+ roasts have an underlying panela sugar sweetness in the fragrance, (inciting the kind of retronasal response that comes with smelling raw cane juice) with lemon and orange tea accents, complex, and near floral. Full City teases out berry accents too in the dry grounds. The wet aroma is 'big' in the sense that sweet sugar and fruit smells are easily sensed from across the table. Middle roasts take on characteristics of an 'Orange Julius': the drink made up of orange juice, vanilla, and brown sugar. The cup echoes this flavor matrix, deep raw sugar sweetness courses through the cup with molasses accents at the edges, and a citric snap charging through. A pulpy flavor of fresh squeezed orange juice is the highlight of City and City+ roasts, shifting toward panela-sweetened lemonade as the cup cools. Full City roasts make a thick cup in both body and density of sweetness. Citrus again defines much of the cup flavors, but accompanied by notes of grape and raspberry nearly in equal strength. Dark cacao and coconut water accents provide contrast in the finish, and bring to mind cacao bar with dried tropical fruit. An incredibly complex cup from light to dark, we were split on roast level preference. Full City will make an extremely sweet and perhaps shockingly bright espresso too.