Gaturiri is a coffee factory (read as cooperative wet mill) near the town of Karatina in the heart of Nyeri. We have offered it may times in past years, as it's always one of our favorites. Kenya's processing technique is the most detailed and thorough in the trade. Coffee beans go through a litany of quality stages separating their density, washing solids as well as multiple drying stage to maximize their potential from that end. If there is one single idea to take away from Kenyan processing though I'd say that what we experience as tasters from Kenyan coffees are the cleanest expressions of the bean itself. The parchment is pristinely white meaning that zero solids are left to interfere with the flavor profile within the structure of the bean. Gaturiri has great altitude and ideal weather conditions to go along with the varietals and processing. More importantly, it has outstanding leadership. Ngatia Kanyoge has been at the helm of the cooperative for the past two years steering these producers into their most successful era. The focus on cherry selection is impeccable as Ngatia and the producers know well that this is what separates them from the pack. So we have been buying from the same family of coffees for some time now, and this cup is reason enough. It is fairly intense, especially in the lighter roasts. If you don't love boldly bright and acidic coffees, you might want to be discrete with the quantity you buy; try a little and see how it goes. But for those that are fans of sparkling acidity and well defined fruit flavors, this one's for you.
We've carried the AB and AA lots of this coffee already this year, and like those coffees, the Peaberry selection demonstrates pronounced sweetness and multitude of fruits. The dry grounds have the sugary sweet smell of raw honey and a floral citrus scent. Dark roasts are tropical with the pungency of ripe mangoes and papaya. Hot water brings on confectionery-like aromatics, with brown sugar and lemon, so sweet and reminds me of lemon squares. The cup is juicy (no surprise), and with such great mouthfeel. It has a vanilla and orange flavor to it, that is super sweet and with the creaminess of orange cream soda. Light roasts are sweet citric, and with a note of golden raisin. Like the aromatics, these citrus notes define this cup at both light and dark roast levels. The acidity shifts quite a bit as the cup cools, changing from mandarin up front, to tangerine, and then concord grape. Taking the roast into Full City territory will yield a slightly more "tropical flavor profile, with notes of kumquat and pineapple, as well as a rich flavor of chocolate orange. This is a complex and delicious brewed coffee, that does surprisingly well as espresso too. Our Full City roast had an up front brightness to it, which transitions nicely to a deep chocolate roast flavor. So sweet and viscous.