This coffee is loaded with fruit juice notes, such as white grapefruit, pomello, Concord grapes, and cranberry. It has a pleasantly "tight", tartaric acidity, and finishes with candied orange peel and cacao nibs. The balance of this lot is superior to many of the other Kenya lots we've seen, particularly with more roast development. City to Full City is recommended.
Gaturiri is a "coffee factory", a cooperative wet-processing mill, near the town of Karatina in the heart of Nyeri. We have offered it may times in past years, and earlier arrivals from this current 2011-2012 crop too. This arrived Gaturri PB was from our final container arriving from Kenya, and I was really surprised by the cup impressed with the cup. We had an incredible lot of Gatomboya last year, another "factory" that is part of the same cooperative group as Gaturiri, Barichu Farmers Cooperative Society. So we have been buying from the same family of coffees lately. This is a fairly intense cup, especially in the lighter roasts. If you don't love boldly bright and acidic coffees, you might want to be discrete with the quantity you buy; try a little and see how it goes. With this lot, we didn't want to risk entering the Kenya auction for a great coffee like this, so it was bought direct, outside the auction format. It means we had to pay a premium to ensure the final cost was at or above what the auction price might be.
The Gaturiri PB is intense stuff. This is not "subtle" coffee, but is heavily fruited with aspects of dried fruits, along with plum, raisin, and black cherry. Darker roasts develop aspects of baking spices like powdered ginger and even a note of fresh cedar chips. The wet aromatics are so sweet, with Concord grape juice, dark honey, berry, ripe citrus, and chocolate. This coffee inspires a lot of aromatic descriptors. Gaturiri has a strong syrupy mouthfeel. Light roasts show complex citrus notes, with white grapefruit juice and pomelo at the top of the list, along with a "juicyness" that matches these descriptors. The acidity is tartaric and pleasantly tightening like the juice of Concord grapes or cranberries. Darker, Full City roasts boast Rainier cherry and currant, while still retaining much of the citrus complexity. This peaberry lot finishes nicely with candied orange peel and a hint of cacao nibs. Overall this coffee demonstrates a more balanced profile than other Kenyas, especially in the darker roasts. While Gaturiri cups great 24 hours out of the roaster, waiting at least 72 hours will help to bring out the syrupy mouthfeel in the cup.