Gatomboya is a coffee washing station, a wet mill, a coffee factory. By "factory", it doesn't mean it is industrial, aside from the coffe de-pulping machine. A "factory" is a wet mill where the coop members bring coffee cherry for pulping, fermenting, washing, drying. It's not the factory as we might imagine it. Small washing stations are aligned with a particular "society" which is what they call a cooperative in Kenya. We've had amazing lots of Gatomboya the last few years, which is part of the same cooperative group as Gaturiri: Barichu FCS. We keep returning to the societies who seem to regularly produce some of the best Kenya coffees we see, such as Barichu and Tekangu societies. This coffee was purchased direct, not through the Kenya auction system, so we could avoid the risk of losing it. To do this we pay a price that is higher than what the top auction bid might be, but it means we get the exact lot we want. This is the peaberry outturn, which we also picked up AA and AB outturns as well. The peaberry seemed slightly more fruit-forward than the others, so sweet, and with depth of cup flavors. This year we brought in 46 and 60 KG bags as opposed to the vacuum sealed again. It gives us more flexibility with the volumes we offer on Shrub, and the quality remains intact with grain-pro just fine.
This peaberry lot of Gatomboya has a robust, fruited profile right out of the gate. The dry fragrance is perfumed with saturated smells of dark honey and grape aromatics, turning toward dark stone fruit as you near Full City roast level. There's a scent of peaches and cream that is bolstered in wet aroma, accompanied by notes of caramel sauce and maple syrup that are released on the break. As you can probably imagine, this coffee has a deeply sweet profile that is built around a multiplicity of fruited characteristics. We found a wide range of fruit flavors - grape, kumquat, coconut water, plum, peach, orange juice, and more. The cooling cup reflects stone fruit in a "complete" sense - a tannic side like the skin of peach, juicy sweetness like the ripe flesh, and an ever so slight tartness like the fruit closest to the skin. A raw sugar sweetness prevails in both the City and Full City roasts, and the darker roasts harnessing a cacao bar element as well. This is a lovely peaberry outturn of Gatomboya, perhaps a tad more fruit-forward than the AA and AB we picked up.