Sweet and juicy, red apple, Meyer lemon, green grape, and candied orange peel. Darker roasts have burned sugar and golden raisin. This coffee really opens up as it cools. Our favorite Kenya for SO espresso. City+ to Full City.
Kagumo-ini is a "factory" (a coffee mill) that is part of the Mugaga Farmer's Cooperative Society. It's near Karatina town in Mathira, Nyeri with average farms in the area at 1600 meter altitude, red volcanic loam soils (typical for the area), and other crops including tea, corn, and bananas. It's a typical cooperative in those respects, but the quality of coffee produced at this mill has been very high season after season. We have offered a Kagumo-ini lot many times in the past, as well as other Mugaga coffees: Kiamabara, Keini, Gatina and Gathugu. I have visited there twice, and was impressed with the Mugaga coop organization and the processing practices at Kagumo-ini as well. As with other good coops in Nyeri, they always have the farmer separate the ripeness of the coffee cherry before submitting it for processing, removing under-ripes that create astringency in the cup. Small things like this make a huge difference in the resulting coffee.
The dry fragrance of Kagumo-ini is laced with caramel and vanilla sweetness. Full City roasts have more of a baked muffin quality, with sweet spices such as cardamom and all-spice. There is also a floral peach scent in the dry aroma that comes through clearly when hot water is added. Breaking the wet grounds of a City+ roast has a malic brightness, with hints of citrus, ripe apricot, and clover honey, while darker roasts have more of a caramel apple appeal. The cup is sweet and juicy. City+ roasts bring out the fruited complexity that this coffee is capable of producing. Red apple, Meyer lemon, green grape, and candied orange peel, names only a few of the fruit notes we found. Going deeper into the roast sees a burned sugar note along with golden raisin. This coffee fades to a slightly rindy finish as it cools, which is pleasantly bittering. This is a coffee that really opens up as it cools, and the longer you hold it on your palate, the more you get out of it. Out of all our Kenya coffees, this is definitely the one with the best SO espresso potential due to the culmination of dark sugar sweetness, malic brightness, and lively fruit notes. Very interesting indeed.