Complex flavor profile with intense brightness and dark fruits, intense syrupy sweetness and mouthfeel, grape fruits and related grape-like tartaric acidity, weighty sweetness, black currant, caramel, malt syrup, balanced and yet still very intense. City+ to Full City.
Gaturiri is a coffee factory (read as cooperative wet mill) near the town of Karatina in the heart of Nyeri. We have offered it may times in past years, and it was one of my favorites from the 2010 harvest as well. This arrived in a later shipment from the current crop, and I was really surprised by the cup impressed with the cup. We had an incredible lot of Gatomboya last year, another "factory" that is part of the same cooperative group as Gaturiri, Barichu Farmers Cooperative Society. So we have been buying from the same family of coffees lately. This is a fairly intense cup, especially in the lighter roasts. If you don't love boldly bright and acidic coffees, you might want to be discrete with the quantity you buy; try a little and see how it goes. This was one of the most expensive coffees from Kenya this year, bought direct from the cooperative to secure it's purchase. We didn't want to risk entering the auction with a great coffee like this, but it also means we had to pay a premium to ensure the final cost was at or above what the auction price might be. Based on the cup, it was a smart move. This is a coffee lot we had split with another roaster, and we sold our half earlier this year. It turns out we were able to buy some from their stock, so we can offer it again!
The sweetness of the dry fragrance from this Gaturiri is evident from across the room when I grind it. What a great smell! It has fruit and floral aspects, but mainly it possesses a potent caramel scent than borders of sweet with a hint of savory. The wet aromatics scream out "sweet" as well - plum, caramelized sugar, Concord grape juice. What struck me the first time I cupped this Gaturiri lot was the intense syrupy sweetness and mouthfeel. As I roasted it lighter, grape fruits and related grape-like tartaric acidity was the prime feature. It was very bright! In my last roast there was a slightly different expression of these flavors; a weighty sweetness, black currant, caramel, malt syrup, more balanced and yet still very intense. In fact all these things are present in this coffee and slight roast variations emphasize one or the other. Lighter roasts were more piquant, acidic, as you would expect, but overall this coffee demonstrated a more balanced profile than other Kenyas, especially in the darker roasts. I was surprised how consistent this lot was to last years Gaturiri AA, which demonstrates a certain appellation related to this coffee factory and the farm-members. I had great results on my lighter roasts by resting this coffee (airtight) over 3-5 days. If you like light roast Kenyas and can handle that level of brightness, try a longer rest period.