It's a very interesting flavor profile, not your fruitbowl Kenya, but a nicely structured, bracing and bright, articulate cup. Stone fruits, firm peach and apricot (not overly ripe), juicy mouthfeel, a touch of hawthorn floral note and a slightly drying tea-like quality to the finish. City to Full City roast level.
Kiangoi is a "factory," a coffee mill in Kenya terminology, from the Kirinyaga growing district. It is a cooperative coffee, one of the processing stations of the Kibirigwi Farmers Cooperative Society located in Kerugoya. While we like estate coffees, oftentimes the qualities from cooperatives is superior. In a coop, each member is tending to only 200-500 trees on less than a hectare, as opposed to a huge estate that uses agribusiness growing methods. I think it shows in the cup too. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to visit Kiangoi, as it is the second time we have offered this specific coop coffee. I usually head in the direction of Nyeri to visit coops we have worked with more extensively, and Kirinyaga is the opposite way, to the East and away from the Aberdare zone. But we have had so many nice Kirinyaga lots lined up for 2010, I think I must spend more time there! The pictures with this review are SL-28 cultivar, the predominate type in Kirinyaga.
This is a Bourbon hybrid from the 1930s developed by Scot Labs, and absolutely the best Kenya cultivar for cup quality. This is a nicely prepared Peaberry lot, as we have seen many mixed with quite a lot of flatbean (not that it matters if the cup is good!) The fragrance from the dry grounds has a sweet praline nut tone (City roast and City+ roast), as well as buttery caramel. I found the wet aromatic to be tea-like, malty, a little wheaty (like malt-o-meal), honeyed, with a hawthorn floral element. It's a very interesting flavor profile, not your fruitbowl Kenya, but a nicely structured, bracing and bright, articulate cup that is, in the final analysis, fairly straightforward. Stone fruits, firm peach and apricot (not overly ripe), juicy mouthfeel, a touch of hawthorn floral note (as found in the aromatics), a slightly drying tea-like quality to the finish.