The cup is boldly bright, a very piquant and high-toned coffee. Ripe orange, zested with orange peel, a seductive sweetness with a syrupy caramelized sugar quality. As the cup cools the high notes sharpen, becoming an exhilarating lemony burst. City to Full City roast.
Kainamui is a "factory," a coffee mill in Kenya terminology, from the Kirinyaga growing district. This is where the farmers bring the coffee cherry they harvest in the local area for pulping, fermenting, and sun-drying. It is a cooperative coffee, one of two mills in the New Ngariama Farmers Cooperative Society, in the town of Kianyaga. While we have nothing against estate coffees, oftentimes the qualities from cooperatives is superior in Kenya. In a coop, each member is tending to only 200-500 trees on less than a hectare, as opposed to a huge estate that uses agribusiness growing methods. I think it shows in the cup. While I have not visited the Kainamui factory, it's on my agenda for the next trip after finding this amazing lot. This is a burly and strong Kenya coffee, not for those who might be on the fence in their feelings for the bright Kenya flavor profile.
The dry fragrance has sweet orange citrus brightness and strong (slightly rustic) caramel sweet notes. This scent is a bit like the Cajeta (milk caramel sauce) and sweetened condensed milk. Adding hot water, the wet aromatics remind me of raw cane sugar, jolly rancher cherry candy, but also have a pronounced floral quality, a lemon-rose potpourri. The cup is boldly bright, in the extreme, a very piquant and high-toned coffee. Ripe orange, zested with orange peel tangy taste in the finish, dominates the cup initially. There's a seductive sweetness that provides a great backdrop for these high tones, with a syrupy caramelized sugar quality. As the cup cools the high notes sharpen, becoming an exhilarating lemony burst, yet the fading into a sweet and long-lasting finish. This Kenya both twists at your tongue, and tames it with layers of citric acidity paired with strong sweetness. It's a roller-coaster of a coffee, racy and dynamic. When we do the post-season Kenya wrap-up on the cupping table, I have a strong feeling this will be the powerhouse lot of all 2010.