The cup is very sweet with flavors of milk chocolate and raw almond up front, that turn more toward cream caramel as the cup cools. Fruit is expressed mostly as acidity when hot - and malic, at that - but flavors of apple and pear show in lighter roasts, pairing nicely with a flavor and mouthfeel of dark cocoa. Dark roasts are very sweet, and at Full City have heaps of chocolate syrup. City to Full City+.
This coffee is a single-farmer lot from the area of Ciparay, Pak Rukman. This coffee is the result of working with the local farmers in the oldest coffee-growing region in Java, and wet-processing the coffee in little batches to high standards. Java Sunda (West Java) was the original coffee area, but you would find few trees here of late. Most Java coffee is grown in the East, where the big estates are. But farmers in Java Sunda always kept small coffee plots, although they mainly grown rice, onions, cabbage, carrots and other food crops for local markets in Bandung and Jakarta. Here amongst the Ateng and Jember coffees are some old Typica trees, the original Typica, which is quite amazing. (Java was the first destination for coffee from Yemen, with a stopover in India). This is the fifth year of this project for us, and the first time we are doing single-farmer lots, thanks to the hard work of the exporter to keep each separate for us. I met Pak Rukman several years ago, and I saw him even this past year, at the wedding of a fellow coffee miller in Bandung. From the first time I cupped it, this coffee really separated itself from the pack with clean flavors and brightness. And it doesn't seem to hurt that Pak Rukman grows his onions adjacent to his coffee plots, splitting his time equally between both. This is the first time we have been able to offer his coffee as a separate lot.
The theme that runs throughout the profile of Pak Rukman, is bold caramelized sugar sweetness with fruit flavors that shift, but remain laced throughout. The dry fragrance is so sweet with smells of caramel butter up front, and a maple-like note as well. Full City roasts bring up a note of blackberry/maple syrup, as well as a slight smell of aromatic wood, like a cedar lined chest. The profile turns syrupy sweet when adding hot water, and light roasts smell of caramel sauce with a faint scent of amaretto cookie, especially in the darker roasts. Breaking the crust releases a praline nut aroma, like almonds candied with brown sugar and cinnamon. While this is no Central American coffee, it certainly seems closer in some ways to that than an Indonesia. Clean processing is key, and the pungency and 'earthiness' you expect doesn't transpire as it would in wet-hulled coffee. The cup is very sweet with flavors of milk chocolate and raw almond up front, that turn more toward cream caramel as the cup cools. Fruit is expressed mostly as acidity when hot - and malic, at that - but flavors of apple and pear show in lighter roasts, pairing nicely with a flavor and mouthfeel of dark cocoa. Dark roasts are very sweet, and at Full City have heaps of chocolate syrup. There's a dried citrus peel aspect as well that really comes through with more roast development. This will make a great single-origin espresso, and our shots (as usual, my grind was a little course and thus a 'largo') capitalized on a condensed, chocolatey sweetness and piquant, citrus zest tartness.