Naringin is truly something special, deep fruit tones and pectin sweetness fill the cup, intensity building as it cools. Versatile in the roaster, with flavors ranging from sweetened hot cocoa, to cherry juice, to fig bar. City to Full City (and beyond). Good for espresso.
This coffee is from a small group in Ciwidey, who are located around the mountain peak ("gunung") of Naringin in the Malabar mountain range. It is the result of working with the local farmers in the oldest coffee-growing region in Java, and wet-processing the coffee in little batches to high standards. Java Sunda (West Java) was the original coffee area, but you would find few trees here of late. Most Java coffee is grown in the East, where the big estates are. But farmers in Java Sunda always kept small coffee plots, although they mainly grown rice, onions, cabbage, carrots and other food crops for local markets in Bandung and Jakarta. Here amongst the Ateng and Jember coffees are some old Typica trees, the original Typica, which is quite amazing. (Java was the first destination for coffee from Yemen, with a stopover in India). This is the sixth year of this project for us, and the first time we are doing single-farmer lots, thanks to the hard work of the exporter to keep each separate for us. These washed Java coffees really darken up when roasting, and so a bit tougher to judge visually. If you're able to see the coffee while roasting, I suggest taking the roast a shade darker than you normally would and adjusting from there.
City roasts of Naringin show a smell of pumpkin-spice bread in the dry grounds, baked sweet bread with raisins, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Full City harnesses more of a chocolate nature, raw nibs, and cocoa powder. The wet aroma has an intense caramel scent, heightened when breaking the crust. A green-herb note is released too, followed by fruit-pectin sweetness. The brewed coffee is so sweet, and with shocking cleanliness for Indonesian coffee, a testament to clean processing and good milling practices. City+ roasts show dark, juicy fruit flavors as the cup cools, cherry juice, baked apple, and sweet/tart aspects of pluots. Taking the roast a shade darker produces a fig/dark-chocolate combination, fading into bittersweet cocoa in the finish. The fruit characteristics are heightened as the temperature dips, this coffee turning into something really special. Sweet citrus notes come out, tangerine and naval orange, butted up against stone fruit, and a melon hint. Full City roast ushers in sweet cocoa flavors and the finish is extremely long. Naringin is a real standout in this first round of Java coffees, as both brewed coffee and single origin espresso.