This washed Java has clean expressions of fruit and sweetness - orange, tangerine, burned sugar, and cacao. Acidity is tartaric, and well-integrated. Roasted barley, black tea, and stone fruit skins are particularly prominent in City/City+ roasts. City to Full City.
This coffee is from a small group in Ciwidey, who are located around the mountain peak ("gunung") of Haruman in the Malabar mountain range. It is the result of working with the local farmers in the oldest coffee-growing region in Java, and wet-processing the coffee in little batches to high standards. Java Sunda (West Java) was the original coffee area, but you would find few trees here of late. Most Java coffee is grown in the East, where the big estates are. But farmers in Java Sunda always kept small coffee plots, although they mainly grown rice, onions, cabbage, carrots and other food crops for local markets in Bandung and Jakarta. Here amongst the Ateng and Jember coffees are some old Typica trees, the original Typica, which is quite amazing. (Java was the first destination for coffee from Yemen, with a stopover in India). This is the fifth year of this project for us, and the first time we are doing single-farmer lots, thanks to the hard work of the exporter to keep each separate for us.
Haruman has a malty smell in the dry grounds, like maltose syrup, along with a note of vanilla frosting. Hot water builds a strong scent of raw cane juice - raw sweetness, with a touch of 'greenness' to the scent. The crust of a Full City roast has loads of cacao in the steam, with a lingering note of fresh basil. The break builds on the aforementioned, and smells like herbal-infused dark chocolates. Haruman is a great example of how clean these washed Javas can be, with expressions of citrus and fruit, rather than earthy characteristics you might expect from Indonesian coffee. City+ roasts have a hint of lime, even when hot, which opens up to a much sweeter orange or tangerine flavor as the cup cools. The sweetness opens up too, with heavy sugar browning flavors, and are offset by pleasantly tannic top notes of black tea and peach skin. There's a grain aspect, a bit like roasted barley, and more so in City roasts. Our best roasts were at City and City+, hitting Full City still makes for a sweet cup, but nuanced top notes are missing, and an ashiness starts to show in the cup.