The aroma of Rosma 'Reserva' is like burned sugar and cinnamon sticks, a cup with layered sugar sweetness, fresh-to-dried fruit accents: grape, apricot, light citrus, and reverberant syrupy chocolate flavors. City to Full City+. Great for espresso.
You're probably quite familiar with Finca Rosma by now as we buy it year after year, a small farm near Michicoy town in San Pedro Necta area of Huehuetenango. This is a "Reserve" lot of Rosma, treated the same way you would a competition coffee. Small individual lots from isolated parts of the farm are processed separately, cup tested, and the highest scoring separations put together into a single micro-lot. The milled coffee is dried in a covered drying room, then extensively hand-sorted to obtain as close to defect-free, and uniformity as possible. The You can see the results when assessing the green, and the hard work that has gone into identifying the best quality deliveries is evidenced in the cup. Rosma isn't not far from other farms we have bought from, like Finca Huixoc and La Providencia Dos. Finca Rosma is owned by the Morales family, managed by the son Fredy. The name is in honor of his grandmother, Rosemarie. It's located on a high ridge where you drive in to the farm at nearly 1900 meters, then descend down to the mill at around 1600 meters. When Alejandro Rosales bought the farm in 1963, the only way to get there was by foot, or horseback. It's not that easy of a trek by road, either. The farm is quite steep, typical for the high ridges of the Sierra Los Cuchumatanes mountains. I found the plantings to be quite a jumble of cultivars. There were certainly a lot of old Bourbon trees, but I saw many Typica (Arabigo), and some Caturra and Catuai as well. There were red and yellow varietals. Processing is wet-process, traditional fermentation, but they are working with a very tight space; there is not a lot of flat areas in this topography.
This 'reserva' lot does not disappoint, the fragrance of the dry grounds pushing candy-like smells of raw sugar, vanilla, and chocolate candies (reminds me of tootsie rolls and vanilla chews). There's a faint dry fruit scent too in light roasts, which at Full City (FC) is traded for a chocolate syrup smell, drizzled on roasted almond and dry peach. The wet aroma is like chocolate brownie with raspberry filling, a dense sweetness offset by burned sugar bittersweetness and faint dry spice suggestions. The cup too follows suit with a nice mixture of toasted sugars complexity, fresh-to-dry fruited accents, and a long sweet finish. Flavors are crisp, and a fruited acidity (like pear or apple juice) provides a wonderful counterpart to the immense sweetness. The brightness really pops in the middle roasts, accentuating fruited notes like grape, apricot, and to some extent citrus, that come into focus as the cup temperature cools. At Full City, the coffee takes on a juicy plum flavor, along with the tartness of the fruit skin, and with a lasting chocolate flavor reverberating throughout the finish. This is a near-perfect espresso too, and for those who crave resonant cocoa flavors, chewy sweetness, and fruit undertones.