As you descend into the picturesque town of Antigua on the road from Guatemala City, you will see an old brick wall and the unlikely gold script lettering that reads "Cabrejo." This is the entrance to the home of Agustin Fashen, and the gateway to the lower part of Finca Cabrejo that lies between the one-way roads in and out of Antigua. To get to the higher part of the farm, you will find a much less ornate sign, if you can find it at all. It spans a wide range, from 1,585-1,920 meters, and the trees seem to be in various stages of care, various types, various ages. That is why the farm is undergoing renovation, adding better road access and replanting some parts. The current shrubs are mainly Bourbon, Caturra and some Catuai. Actually, we found some very old Arabigo (Typica) plants as well, and some had yellow fruit! The crop was much smaller from Cabrejo this year, but the cup quality is outstanding again.
Cabrejo is a juicy coffee with much in the way of fruit complexity and sugar browning sweetness. The dry fragrance is intensely sweet with wafts of brown sugar with fresh butter, along with slight hints of apricot and clove. Caramel notes play a large part in the wet aroma and are layered with suggestions of vanilla bean and cinnamon. Darker roasts show bittersweet cacao and roast tones reminiscent of hickory chips on the break. Malic fruits such as red apple, Asian pear, and Bartlett pear, are central fruited characteristics of this coffee's flavor profile in the City to Full City roast range. This lends to the the juicy mouthfeel of this coffee as well as the articulate acidity. Cabrejo has a honey sweetness at lighter roasts, that with more roast development shifts toward dark brown sugar. The mouthfeel of dark roasts is more viscous and brings about a sensation of clarified butter on the pallet. As the temperature drops, wonderful toasted praline and butter roast tones come to fore. This coffee makes a great SO Espresso. Full City+ shots have a refined acidity, creamy mouthfeel, and notes of burned sugar that have a delicious toasted marshmallow quality.