The beauty of Cabrejo is equal to that of the city where it resides - Antigua. The picturesque town lies along the main highway heading southwest from Guatemala City. The farm is one of the first you come upon in Antigua, and is split into lower and higher altitude areas. Agustin Fashen lives in the lower area. The altitude ranges from 1585 - 1929 meters, and the trees are in various stages of care, types, and ages. Although we did see a photo of the farm in September, well into the wet season, and the renovation that they're working on looks amazing. The current shrubs are mainly Bourbon, Caturra, and some Catuai. While this coffee is from the same "Cabrejo" that we sell on Sweet Maria's, this lot has been dried in a different setting. Down at the mill they've built an elaborate indoor drying area for drying parchment coffee ("Invernadero" means greenhouse, but in this case the greenhouse is full of raised drying beds). This indoor area allows for a much gentler and consistent climate for the drying parchment. Long aisles of stacked trays line the greenhouse, and each tray consists of a wooden frame with a wire mesh bottom. The mesh allows for airflow (there's fans placed around the room as well to facilitate this) furthering this rather gentle drying cycle.
Invernadero is a sweet coffee with caramel and dark sugars all the way through the profile. Grinding the coffee brings about a smell of muscovado sugar and raisin, reminiscent of oatmeal cookie dough. It's honeyed in both light and dark roasts with a slight floral note as well. Baking spices come out in deeper, Full City roasts with a scent of loose leaf tea and clove. Hot water brings about a very sweet smell of plum and fig along with vanilla bean, channeling super sweet saturated caramel on the break. This coffee's cup profile is defined by up-front sweetness along with a creamy-smooth mouthfeel. You're greeted with heaps of dark brown sugar and caramel at first sip, with a fructose sweetness of apple and pear. The acidity is malic and refreshing at both City and Full City roast levels. Full City roasts bring about a profile of dark fruits, red berry, along with acidity that shines. It's an overall well-rounded cup that is classic in character but with a level of sweetness that is a notch above. The finish has a slight bittering cocoa flavor, but falls more along the lines of golden raisin before disappearing. This is an exceptional option for single-origin espresso.