Cups with complex fruit notes that vacillate between citrus and tropical. Fruited notes come alive - papaya, passionfruit, orange and even a bit of tart kiwi come out. The finish has pulpy citrus with a black tea-like mouthfeel in the long aftertaste. Exciting brewed coffee, and great espresso. City to Full City+. SO Espresso.
This lot comes from the Dereje station in the Deri Kochowa kebele (a county) in Hagere Mariam woreda. Fairly off the map in comparison to other Sidama coffee areas, the coffee from Deri Kochowa region has made quite a mark in the last two years. You see this trend often in coffee, a great lot emerges from "___" (fill in the blank), and the very next year that coffee is seemingly everywhere. And in the case of Deri, it's simply a region, and no guarantee you will get a specific station, blend, grade, etc. Not that a blended lot equals lower quality - the blended lot we had last year was top shelf. But the point is, not all "Deri Kochowa" coffee is the same. This year we were lucky enough to secure a couple station-specific lots, such as Dereje and our earlier offer from Kifle. Growing altitudes around Dereje range from about 1800 to 2200 meters, and this station produces somewhere in the area of 150 bags per year. Processing is handled in the traditional manner, long fermentation to break down mucilage, followed by the wooden paddle treatment to remove the rest of the fruit, overnight washing, and then drying on raised African beds. Production is meticulous and clean, which definitely plays a heavy role in the resulting clean cup.
This is a fine example of washed Sidama coffee, with a clean florals accenting caramelized sugars and fruited sweetness. The dry fragrance of City roasts have a scent of brown sugar with a honeysuckle overtone, and at Full City dry baking spices like cinnamon and all-spice come out. Adding hot water brings up a strong floral jasmine scent in the steam, along with sugar caramelizing smells and vanilla, and the break releases a fresh note of white peach. The cup has a complex smattering of fruits that vacillate between citrus and tropical, and really change quite a bit with roast. City roasts are light and bright, tart lemon and grapefruit, that shifts toward flavors of dried mango and honey. There are tea elements too, especially City/City+ roast levels. As the temperature dips, fruited notes come alive - papaya, passionfruit, orange and even a bit of tart kiwi come out. The finish is continues to be fruited (of the pulpy varieties) and with a black tea-like mouthfeel in the long aftertaste. This makes an exciting brewed coffee, and espresso has a citric brightness that overlays flavors of semi-sweet chocolate bar, and red berry.