Familia Moreno shines in middle-roast range, blackberry syrup and cardamom spice notes, along with dried cherry and rindy citrus. A cool cup reveals a tart and floral hibiscus tea flavor. Deeper roasts introduce heavy chocolate tones along with the aforementioned. City to Full City.
Here's another of the coffees we've been purchasing in Urrao, a region new to us this year, where the intersection of high altitudes and cold natural springs sees slightly-longer fermentation times in this area. The cup profiles tend to lean toward fruit-forward characteristics, albeit without the edginess tasted in over-fermented coffees. Berry, apple, even tropicals can be found in the cup, with the necessary level of sweetness to back these flavors up. This particular lot is a blend of two neighboring farms, both farmers named "Montoya", though not actually family. "Finca El Arbol" is roughly 2 hectares planted with 5000 Caturra trees, and 1000 Variedad Colombia. The neighboring farm, "El Arbol" is 1.5 hectares, planted in both yellow and red Caturra. This area gets a lot of rain and there's literally coffee on the trees year round, though harvests are broken up between two "main" seasons. They are two of a 20-member farmer group that's been assembled in a small area within Urrao, based on the quality and consistency found in the cup. Levels of fruit are highly contested by coffee professionals, and our our personal feeling is that when accompanied by sweetness and acidity, fruit flavors add welcome cup-complexity. If brought on by overfermentation, fruit and sweetness tend to rapidly fade, depleting the coffee of what once made it interesting. We aren't finding issue with these coffees from Urrao, having cellared green coffee from a few of the farms for over 6 months, with no issues of quality degradation.
Fresh berry and deep fruit tones have become a baseline expectation of the coffees from Urrao. This microlot proves close to this sort of 'signature' flavor profile, as the fragrance of ripe grapes and spiced plum jam suggest. Adding hot water brings up a beautiful floral sugar smell, like butterscotch topping, a raw honey aspect too, along with date pudding. The brewed cup shows a strong presence of stone fruit nectars, apricot tops the list for me, and the weighty liquor makes this flavor all the more convincing. Aspects of 'fresh fruits' come through (as opposed to dried) - passion fruit, lemon, and apple - backed with bracing acidity. There's an extremely syrupy sweetness, near corn syrup-sweet, that along with a tannin-like bittering aspect comes off like canned peaches and nectarines. Citrus notes come through as the coffee cools, with a crowning crisp mandarin orange note. The finish is long, sweet, and marked by subtle fruit and spice notes complimenting a fading peach-skin flavor. For those of you who enjoy Kenya espresso, this one's a knockout, but without the extreme brightness that you'd expect from Kenya.