This coffee is the result of a new project that has sprung up in the La Plata Municipality of Huila, Colombia, centered around an association working with a small number of coffee farmer in the surrounding highlands. La Plata lies in the foothills of the Cordillera Central mountain range, the farms in this group spanning a range of 1500 meters to 2000 meters above sea level. The average farm size is about 2 hectares with less than 10,000 trees planted, Caturra being the dominant cultivar grown, with some Variedad Colombia, and Castillo mixed in. We tasted Wilfredo's coffee last July, and the 10 bags we wound up purchasing most likely represent his entire yield from the middle harvest. This season, the intermediary we work with in the region are helping to finance the buying so that farmers are paid an initial premium up front when the coffee is delivered, and then a second payment once quality tier is determined. Farmers like Wilfredo are paid a hefty premium for allowing us to separate out their best coffee (nearly double the standard payment by the association).
This coffee's sweetness is overt, building strength from dry fragrance, to wet, aroma, and finally a highlight in the brewed coffee. The smell of the dry grounds and wet aromatics vacillate between a dark toffee and sweetness, and something close to almond biscotti. It has a marzipan-like smell with a delicate anise accent that reminds of the latter, which in roasts much closer to Full City take on a dusting of bittersweet chocolate powder. This coffee brews nicely, and we preferred the balance found in City+ roast to the lightest end of the roast spectrum. Our brew had a marzipan and dried fruit sweetness culminating in a flavor oatmeal raisin cookies, and chocolate-covered dried plum chews. Body is hefty, a silky mouthfeel promoting flavors hazelnut chocolate spread. Full City roasts are bountiful with dark chocolate richness, a compactness of flavor like in dark chocolate torte. Acidity is fairly mild here, a subtle fruited vibrance that all but disappears when you pass Full City.