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This lot from Brayan Joven has raw honey sweetness and malic brightness at City/City+ roasts. Top notes of red raisin, apple, lemon water, and cinnamon stick emerge. Complexity of a "dessert" coffee with balance and extreme clarity. City+ to Full City.
Brayan Joven, the young producer brings us this lovely 13 bag lot made up entirely of Caturra. His farm, "La Mesita", sits in the hills outside Timan de Huila. The lowest part of the farm is 1650 meters and the top nearly tops 1850. At only 21 years old, Brayan carries the torch of the older generation of farmers, continuing in the tradition of small producers in region, with all stages from picking to processing being handled right there on the farm and with oversight from Brayan and co-owner/sister Marcela (that's him on the left in the first picture). They've experimented quite a bit with fermentation and mixing, and have for the time settled on a process of mixing two days of pickings. They pulp the first day's pick, allow to ferment in a tank overnight without water, then rinse before adding in the second day's picking. This mix is allowed to ferment waterless for one more day before washing, and then finally laying out to dry on raised beds in a green house they built on the farm (so one lot ferments 48 hours, the other 24). Mixing different days pickings is shunned by many, but in addition to making a lot of sense for handling these ultra-small batches, there are positive results in the cup.
Once again, Brayan Joven's coffee is one of the true highlights from Timana. The dry fragrance has a thick scent of honey, golden raisin, and a faint candied citrus scent. Honey is a common thread weaving between many of the Colombia coffees we bought in this area, and Brayan's coffee smells of the floral, and unrefined variety. Adding hot water to the mix brings on a smell of fruited caramels and baking spice, such a sweet smell when breaking through the coffee crust. As a brewed coffee, this one's a beauty, a crisp, clean profile, with extreme clarity in flavor notes. The texture is juicy, feeling buoyant on the palate. There's a flavor of red raisin and cinnamon stick at City to City+ roast levels, along with tart lemon water, and both apple flavor and acidity (malic). The sweetness is like raw honey, slightly floral, and with a retronasal response. Hitting Full City yields plum fruit and fresh fig, along with the high % cacao chocolate bar. A dynamic cup indeed, this coffee has all that top note complexity we look for in a "dessert" cup, but with the balance and clarity afforded by the best Colombian coffees.