This Tabi coffee is a unique offering, with raw sugar and cane juice sweetness, and dried fruit, grape, and a floral accent. Both body and sweetness are thick, balancing inherent bittering "coffee" tones well. Great in the middle roast range. City to Full City.
Finca El Nogal is part of a family plot, this being the lowest of the bunch. And by "low", I mean around 1800 meters. Altitude in San Antonio, a vereda of Inz, is very good, and the highest farm of this family is 2000 meters. This is a lot separation of Tabi from the youngest son Nilson Pillumue, whose coffee from "Finca La Salada" we sold earlier in the year. Tabi is one of several varietal crossings of Arabica and Timor-hybrid, produced and promoted by CENICAFE (the Colombian government's national coffee research center) in response to the leaf-rust epidemic in the 1980s. Unlike the more popular Varied Colombia, Tabi only only has one Timor-hybrid in the mix, crossed with Typica, Bourbon, and Caturra. Some of the results include trees that grow extremely fast, easily reaching 8 - 9 feet in height, wide spaces between branches that makes for easy picking (like Typica), and at least this one shows unique fruit and floral characteristics in the cup. Nilson comes from a family of coffee farmers, and their property - once belonging to Nilson's grandfather - is split up between mother, father, and Nilson (his brother also has a farm, but it is located in the neighboring Vereda). Like many in the region, their beneficio consists of a manual pulper, and they also have a 3 tank system involving separate tanks for fermentation, soaking, and final wash. This coffee was purchased through our export partners in Medellin, who've helped us develop a program that involves cupping though many samples to identify farms and lots of particular quality, directing our focus from the cup table. The base price paid for the parchment coffee we buy is now well over 1,000,000 peso range, and when we select a coffee as a separate lot (like this one), a bonus is paid directly to the farmer.
The smells found in the dry grounds of this Tabi lot separation span the sweetness-spectrum from unrefined, brown sugar to raw honey. City+ roasts show hints of dried fruit too, red raisin, and apricot. Adding hot water gives off a smell of fruit pastry, a scent of baking plum pie, or fresh cinnamon-raisin bread. There's a floral note too, much more of an accent, and peeking out when breaking through the wet crust. City roasts make for an elegant cup, wild flower honey sweetness accented with light citrus and tea hints. As you pass the City+ point (or even just "at" City+), dark fruits and raw sweetness enter the cup equation. This coffee shows a very nice cane juice flavor in the middle roast range, balancing out much of the natural bittering "coffee" tones. There's a fruit-paste aspect in flavor too, much like mixed berry-flavored dried fruit strips, roll-ups, or whatever you call them! It's a pectin sugar sweetness and berry confection aspect, replete with some of the tartness you'd expect. As the coffee cools, the cup is accented by notes of vanilla bean, grape, and carnation flower.