A standout Colombia, fruited aspects of ripe plum, dark berries, grape jam, and papaya. Underlying sweetness of dark musscovado throughout, and English Breakfast tea note in the finish. City to Full City.
This microlot from our latest container of Colombia arrivals comes to us from the Urrao region of Antioquia. Urrao is a unique growing region, and in the Valle de Pav_n, coffee farmers afforded extremely high altitudes (the valley floor starts at 1800 meters, farms planted up to 2100!), regular rainfall, and ideal temperature range for growing coffee. The heirloom cultivar that makes up this lot adds another layer of uniqueness. As best as we can tell, this cultivar is a natural regression of Caturra, standing out from other cultivars by tree height, and the elongated and narrow-shaped cherries/seeds that look an awful lot like Typica. And perhaps most important, the cup is known to be fruit forward, and even floral. Passed from one neighbor to the next, several farmers have taken to planting their farms exclusively in this heirloom cultivar. Such is the case of Do±a Carmen, who apparently was given seeds by a neighbor many years back, mainly due to the high yield. It wasn't until several years later that the high quality and unique flavors of Do±a Carmen's coffee was more widely recognized, she being the first farmer from Antioquia to take 1st place in the Cup of Excellence competition. She wet-process her coffees at home, fermenting overnight, and drying on raised beds under cover ("parabolicos"). Her farm is 1 hectare in total, and she recently acquired another hectare not far from her home that is also planted in heirloom Caturra, the first real harvest next year. A unique growing region indeed, you can read more about what we learned on our visit last October HERE. We only have a few bags of this coffee, and so it is being offered in 1 and 2 lb increments only.
When hot this heirloom Caturra lot seems a bit subtle at first, but for the patient drinker, the cooling cup reveals much in the way of top note complexity. The ground coffee shows a layered set of raw sugar scents, panela, dark muscovado, turbinado, and more. Aspects of dried fruit show, but much more low in the profile at this point. The wet aroma sees a boost in fruited characteristics, cooked papaya and berry notes make for a lively aroma. Our City+ roast gave off a scent of blackberry jelly on the break, and at City you sense an understated floral note. From the first sips of hot coffee, you're greeted with winey fruit flavors and compact raw sugar sweetness. Sugary notes of muscovado and turbinado sugars are marked by dark berries, muscat grape, and ripe black plum. Full City roasts develop a fair amount of cocoa bittersweetness, but when kept well outside 2nd snaps, don't detract from raw sugar and fruited complexity. Acidity has a briskness like black tea, and is reinforced by an English Breakfast flavor that lingers from the middle-to-finish. At a range of City to Full City roast level, this heirloom Caturra microlot is a standout cup of coffee, perfect for a special pour-over or small-batch brew.