Jose Leobardo Montoya's coffee cups with fruit-forward complexity, from tart berry to orange-infused honey. The body is lush like fruit juice, and deeper roasts bring on a delicious dark-chocolate flavor to the mix. City to Full City. Amazing for espresso.
Jose Leobardo Montoya's tiny farm "El Arbol" is barely more than a hectare, probably 2000 trees in total, and planted exclusively in Caturra. It's one of two lots adjacent to his home that he has planted in coffee. For him, coffee processing is a family affair, each family member assigned a specific role - one son oversees the harvesting of trees, another handles fermentation and washing, and the final son takes care of the parchment coffee through the drying stages. The part of Urrao where he comes from has really great altitude, 1800 meters on the valley floor, and coffee planted well above 2000. This lot placed in the top 50 in last year's Taza de Antioquia (the Cup of Antioquia), a yearly competition with over 800 farmer contestants from the many growing regions. Submissions are made with the hopes of high placement and the successive auction-premiums that comes with it. Cold water springs are plentiful, and make for slightly longer fermentation times (around 24 hours). The coffees we're buying from this region are fruit-forward, due in part to the confluence of long fermentation times, high altitude, varietal, and climate. Rains persist throughout the year seeing coffee on the trees every 3 weeks or so. Because of this, like Inz on the opposite side of the country, Urrao has two "peak" harvests instead of the common "main" and then the much smaller "fly" crops (a product of lower levels of precipitation).
This lot from Jose Leobardo Montoya shares much in common with our other auction coffee from Hugo Sepulveda. The fragrance and aroma boast dark-hued fruits and berry smells, and with a honey sweetness that sits on the side of raw honey-comb. Breaking the wet crust releases a very sweet scent of raisin bread with cinnamon, and a light, tart citrus note. The brewed coffee shows more-than convincing sweetness and its fair share of fruit-forward flavors. When hot, the cup pushes sweet-to-tart boysenberry and raspberry notes, a faint grape flavor, and base sugar-browning sweetness. This coffee's body is lush, with the weight of fruit juice on the palate. As it cools, I get notes of fruit-flavored honey sticks - especially cherry, and orange - and an apple note adds to a crisp tea-like mouthfeel in the finish. Full City really bolsters deep chocolate tones, while still leaving plenty of room for fruit complexity. An espresso shot yielded a delicious mix of cherry cordial and salted caramel, loads of dark chocolate, and a citrus zing.