Fazenda Borgas cups with relative cleanliness, having much in the way of base coffee attributes - layered sweetness, bittersweet chocolate and nut tones. There's vanilla and caramel that fades to a nice, sweet cocoa flavor in the finish. Great Brazil - body, sweetness, and subtle complexity. City - Full City+. SO Espresso.
This coffee is from Carmo de Minas region, adjacent to the large farm we have bought many times, that of Nazareth Dias Pereira. The coffee is a Yellow Bourbon lot separation from the folks at Fazenda Borgas. While there are other areas in Brazil that produce some fine coffees in respect to the classic Brazil flavor profile, I feel we have found consistently good lots in the Carmo zone. Here there is a bit more altitude than most of the Cerrado coffees, and certainly more than Mogiana farms. The cultivars are generally the same as the other zones, but I feel the processing, while still on a large scale, has a good quality focus.And with the attention given to keeping lots separated by day and varietal, we have the ability to contain any issues with the coffee that might arise along the way.
This lot from Borgas has a nice intermingling of chocolate, nut, and developed sugar sweetness. And with a thick, syrupy body makes a great dual-use often (SO espresso or blend component, as well as brewed cup). The dry grounds smell powdered with milk chocolate and malt, along with dry cherry and molasses cookie. This rather sweet aroma carries over in the brewing coffee, with wetted grounds emanating a scent of chocolate syrup and blackberry, and caramel/nut released on the break. Borgas has a lot of what we're coming to understand as "coffee ID", or the base qualities we look for in a coffee - balance of bittersweet and sweet flavors, the makeup of an approachable coffee. From there, top notes can differentiate one coffee from the next, but this "ID" is what we're starting to recognize as a necessary base. Anyway, I'll try not to get sidetracked. Borgas has a flavor of coffee candy (vanilla, caramel, and of course coffee) along with fruited notes that appear as the coffee cools - Bosc pear, green apple, even a bit of green grape - but they're more background notes adding only subtle complexity. Overall, this is a really nice lot of Brazilian coffee that cups with relative cleanliness. It's a Brazil that you can stop at City if you like, but might bode better in the sweetness category at City+ and beyond. And Full City roasts make incredible espresso with heavy chocolate flavors and viscous body.