Yemen Mokha Ismaili

Yemen Mokha Ismaili

Farm Description

Ismaili is a fabled origin. Even in Yemen, in a local market in Sana'a, the spice-tea-qishr-coffee vendor told me his green beans (much of it broken "triage" coffee, mixed with cardamom pods) was truly special. "It's Ismaili coffee," he said. I didn't mention that I slept on the floor of a villagers house the night before, in the mind-boggling vertical mountains of Ismaili, a landscape etched in stone with ancient terraces lined with ghat and coffee trees interplanted. Ismaili is also a rugged terrain and very difficult to get the coffee out, because often the roads are impassable. It's the only time I can remember getting stuck on a dirt road not by losing traction or loose rocks. The Toyota Land Cruiser was actually wedged between 2 massive rocks, since the road had been built mostly for mules, not cars. Because of perennial lack of water and poor soils, the coffee trees produce very, very little. It's a large part of the Yemeni price equation, which this year has reached new highs. Gladly, the quality is quite nice too.


Cupping Notes

The dry fragrances from the Ismaili (at 3 different roast levels) is a bit rocky, and it takes a minute to adjust to these extreme and exotic smells; leather, dried herbs, dusty sweetness, caramel, spice, aromatic sandalwood and ginseng. The wet aromatics have clove and allspice with a bit of ginger, while the darker roast (FC+) is very pungent and intense, with suggestions of sarsaparilla and anise. Later there are some interesting sweet notes that come out, traces of butterscotch (C+) and syrupy plum wine (FC+). Ismaili are not fruity-bright Yemens but there are some interesting berry aroma hints in the medium roast. At C+ roast the first flavors to emerge are spices: fresh ginger root, a zest of pepper, anise. At FC+ it's a different beast: bittersweet pungent notes, dark herbs, Chai and "roastaroma tea" notes, licorice root, cinnamon bark, clove, some black walnut, and spiced chocolate. The body seems heavy, but is actually deceptively light and perhaps it has to do with the intensity of cup flavors as it cools. The Ismaili makes great Single Origin (SO) espresso. The cup here is rooty and earthy, pungent and extremely long in aftertaste. Note that Yemeni coffees need rest after roasting. They have more aromatics at 12 hours or 24 hours, but really develop at 72+ hours of rest after roasting. This is even more true for espresso. The best espresso I had from Ismaili was a casual experiment; 1/3 of a C+ roast rested for a week (!) and 2/3 of an FC++ roast rested for 36 hours. Fantastic!

Score

88

Lot Size

30 bags X 60 KG

Roast Recommendations

Full City, Full City+, a 50-50 blend of the two roast levels - very interesting!

Processing

Dry Process

Varietal

Heirloom Varietals    

Grade & Appearance

.8 defects per 300grams, 15-16 Screen

Packaging

Shipped to us in jute
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This coffee has sold out. The review is provided for reference purposes only.

Ancient coffee terraces in Yemen, Ismaili.

A coffee village in Ismaili, from my last trip there.

The future of Yemeni coffee, in Ismaili

Stressed and water-starved plants produce few cherries. Ismaili.
 

Comments

#1 Agree with the light body.

Agree with the lighter body. Was also not as wild as I was expecting from the dry aroma. There's a real softness to the flavors, and I can def. pick up the sandalwood and clove. As it cools it takes on a malty sweetness, my friend Lesley called it toasted rice and I thought that hit it right on the head. Even with the savory characteristics, I still found this coffee to be real sweet, especially when it cools.

#2 ?

What is "roastaroma tea"?

#3 Hey Ian, what's up? Sorry to

Hey Ian, what's up? Sorry to get back to you late on this. Roastaroma tea is a malty, grain and spice mixture made to be a "natural" coffee replacement. Hope you're well.

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