Sulawesi Toarco Wet-Process AA

Sulawesi Toarco Wet-Process AA

Farm Description

Wet-process coffees from Sumatra or Sulawesi are rare. There are other Indonesia islands (Java, Timor, Flores) and sources farther up the island arc (Papua New Guinea) that do wet-processing. But Sumatra and Sulawesi are known for the Giling Basah (Wet-hulled) process that results in the heavy body, low acid cup profile tasters associate with the region. This is an example of flavors from processing having a huge bearing on the cup flavors. Previous examples of wet-process Sumatra showed that when you lift that veil of "process flavor", there was little origin character, be it from the cultivar, the altitude, the micro-climate, or anything else, to speak of ... in other words, the coffee was incredibly boring. For those who dislike process flavors this always poses a problem; fruitiness from funky fermentation, or earthiness from the fact that, in Sulawesi and Sumatra, green coffee is dried directly on the ground/patio/tarp, with no protective shell or skin. So the question always in the back of my mind was this: are these inferior coffees that are being "flavored" by process, something we would not accept from any other origin. If we lift that veil of flavoring, would there indeed be a cup "signifying nothing." Well, to stand as clear proof that fear is unfounded, we offer a totally unconventional, fully washed (wet-process) coffee from the only long-established Estate in Sulawesi; PT Toarco Jaya. The operation is a partnership of a Japanese company and roaster. It's a unique flavor, and proves the potential of Sulawesi coffee: Strip off the overlaying process flavor, and it soars! Clean, bright, sweet; things that only come with good handling, good altitude, and good cultivar. While it may be a flavor profile one expects from Guatemala, not Sulawesi, it might also prove to those who don't like the earthy funk of Indonesia coffee that they CAN find something extraordinary from this part of the world. Toarco Estate is located in Tana Toraja and ranges from 1000 to 1250 meters, but much of their coffee comes from higher-altitude smallholder farmers they work with, upward of 1500 meters. It measures 530 hectares, but 300 is planted in coffee while the rest is preserved as native forest. The coffee is grown under a shade-tree canopy which they are restoring to nearly original condition at this writing. As I mentioned, Toarco farm also purchases coffee from surrounding smallholder farms, and provides agronomic education to these farmers to make sure the strict quality measures are met (in particular, the purchase only of fully ripe, red coffee cherry, and exacting milling and sorting standards). All the cherry is processed at the Toarco wet mill the same day it comes in from the field, using traditional wet-process methods you would find in Central America or other areas with a washed coffee tradition. While this an unusual Sulawesi cup, it still has flavors that relate to other coffees of the region.

This coffee is part of our Farm Gate pricing program.

Cupping Notes

We offered both the amazing peaberry selection of this Toarco and the AA lot from last year's crop. Welcome back, Toarco AA! Still with a rounded flavor profile and very sweet and unconventional when it comes to Indo coffee. The dry fragrance is potent, with dynamic sweetness (Muscavado raw sugar), tangerine and clean fruit scent of mango-peach juice. In the wet aroma, slight traces of pine resin beneath the floral and citrus indicate the foresty character of Sulawesi. In the cup, the clean and sweet character is so unique for this origin with a creamy finish. The body is bigger and has more texture, the suggestions of pine/juniper resinous flavors with slight coriander notes are still present, with sweet botanicals in a rich syrup (like a ricola lozenge) in the finish. While bright and dynamic, it has a softer side too, characterized by the floral and melon notes in balance. As it cools the coffee rounds out, has more body, and greater intensity, and greater sweetness with a limoncello note. In the lightest roasts, right at City, the limoncello dominates the textured, cloudy body with notes of herbaceous bitters in the finish, the best cocktail I've had all year! I've yet to pull any espresso with this, but with a bit more body than last year and sweeter all around, I can't wait to try.

Score

89.1

Lot Size

25 60KG Bags

Roast Recommendations

City+ to Full City

Processing

Wet Process

Varietal

Djember    

Grade & Appearance

.0 defects per 300 grams

Packaging

Shipped in grainpro, vacuum packed at our warehouse
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This coffee has sold out. The review is provided for reference purposes only.

Coffee producer statuary! Near the PT Toarco offices, Toraja.

Coffee flowers Pedemeran Estate, Toarco, Sulawesi

Shunji Yoneda and Isao Miyake, Toarco agronomist

Cupping lab at the Toarco farm.
 

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